Saturday, January 14, 2012

More Paris

We debated whether or not to go to Giverny to see Monet's home and gardens because it would take an entire day but did decide to go and it proved to be one of our best decisions. We took the morning train to Giverny which is in Normandy. The ride itself was an adventure: getting the ticket, finding the station, finding a seat, watching all the interesting people on the train. The trip took about two hours then we had to take a bus for a quick ride to Monet's house.

The house is a cosy, quaint place - no photos allowed inside. The grounds were beautiful and in full spring bloom. Monet himself planned the garden composing it around colors, growing seasons, texture, design. It is supposed to be spectacular in late summer with gorgeous roses but we couldn't have been happier with our spring visit.

Here is Charlie at the entry to the house and gardens

The house where Monet and his family lived. He had the house built.
The garden in front of the house. This is just one of several gravel paths running the length of the garden. They are covered in climbing roses in the summer.
Looking down from the house's porch: pink tulips and little blue flowers.
The trees were in bloom, too.
Another bed by the porch.
A more expansive view.
Lilies and azaleas.
The azaleas and rhododendrons were spectacular.







The pond is on the other side of the road so we had to follow an underpass under the road and walk just a bit. Even that walk was beautifully designed. Here is some bamboo along the stream.
And here is Monet's famous Japanese bridge with wisteria. Notice the reflection on the water. Monet was fascinated by the colors on the water as you can tell by his works.
Again the reflection.

The dogwoods were in bloom. White...
And pink....

Monet also had animals at Giverny. There were the most interesting looking chickens. Here are some of the residents. The one in front had a beautiful collar of feathers.

We were so happy we did make it to Giverny and thoroughly enjoyed our day there. I want to go back some August and see the roses!

After Giverny we continued our tour of Paris. Since we had both been to the Louvre, we didn't go there this time. But we did visit L'Orangerie which is the museum designed by Monet to display his works, specifically the water lilies. After having seen the pond in person the paintings were even more moving. It is such an experience. I could have sat there all day taking in the paintings but we did have to move on.

I have to include a photo of the Eiffel Tower. It is Paris after all.

Near the Eiffel Tower is L'Hotel des Invalides built in 1670 by Louis XIV as a hospital for soldiers. It now houses the French Army Museum and the tombs of many. many war heroes and the tomb of Emperor Napoleon. It was unexpectedly impressive.

The tomb of Marshal Foch, a World War I hero, was very stirring.

Just to give some idea of the size of the place, this is the altar of the Church of Soldiers.

And here is Napoleon's tomb. The photo doesn't so it justice. It is so much more impressive in real life.

And here is Charlie sitting at the exact place where in 1967 he dropped some important "tourist stuff" and had to climb over the barrier to the floor of the tomb to retrieve it. It was more exciting at that time, though, because there were honor guards standing watch just next to where it fell.

The man himself. It is quite an impressive statue.

One of our favorite place was near our hotel in Marais, the Place de Vosges. Originally built by Henri IV in 1612 as his home, it now houses residences, shops, art galleries, and some charming restaurants. It surrounds a square where, again, the residents of the neighborhood bring their kids  and friends to play and relax.

The Place de Vosages is know for the arches shown below. The construction is quite interesting. 


We found two fantastic fish restaurants in our neighborhood and enjoyed some unique, fresh fish. I even ate a few oysters!

There is always a treasure to find along the streets of Paris whether it's a restaurant, shop, gallery or just some beautiful flowers.

We loved our visit to Paris and its environs. We can't wait to go back!





Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Paris: Easter 2011

Paris. A truly beautiful city and an especially beautiful city in the spring.

We spent five full days in Paris and enjoyed every minute - even with the exceptional heat! (We got sunburned waiting to get into the Palace at Versailles!) I guess I should say we spent three days in Paris, one at Versailles, and one at Giverny. Half the fun was getting the trains and finding our way to Giverny and Versailles...although Versailles was hard to miss!

Here's Charlie at a Metro stop. Paris is pretty easy to get around in. 
 

Surely the most memorable time we had was on Easter Sunday at Mass in Notre Dame. Just thinking of all the people who have attended Easter Mass at this very spot over so many generations gave us pause. And the ceremony was so moving. It was a  Gregorian Mass sung by a  - needless to say - fantastic choir of French monks. What an experience.

A close up of the front. I love the gargoyles who also serve as gutters. They peek out over the roof.

Even closer up - I thought this guy was so creepy. No wonder the people of the Middle Ages were obedient if this is what you got for being bad!

Inside - the glorious arches of the main aisle. The church is huge.

Down the aisle. How many kings have walked this aisle to be crowned or married.

Everything large and small is a work of art. I loved the detail on this column.

Here's the organ.

 It is customary to lite candles for personal intentions. We lit one for Charlie's mother who was still with us at that time and in memory of Charlie's father and my parents.

And here is the Lady herself...

The grounds were so beautiful at this time of year. Here's the back of Notre Dame with spring tulips!

An on a more materialistic note...I have to pay homage to Paris shopping. I thought this window was very Parisian.

We stayed in the Marais district and just loved it. It was full of small side streets with little shops...great little surprises everywhere you looked. There was a small square next to our hotel and at night the locals came out with their kids and dogs to visit. It was so charming and felt like a real Paris neighborhood.


We saw some spectacular stained glass windows in the churches of Paris. The church of Saint-Severin has a gorgeous juxtaposition of the old and the modern. The church itself was built in the eleventh century. In 1964 seven new windows were added that are very contemporary. Here are photos which will hopefully give you a feeling of the church. There is only one photo of the old stained glass.

The old....

And the new...



Each pillar has a different design.

If you ever go to Paris, Saint-Severin is a must-see. And there is a nice cafe just across the street where you can have a nice lunch...which is just what we did!

After lunch we continued our tour and found the SPECTACULAR church of  Sainte-Chapelle. Unbelievable...truly. The church was built around 1240 by Louis IX to house what he believed to be Christ's Crown of Thorns. The Crown is actually still there but only taken out for display on Good Friday. We missed it by a day.

Here is the main room of the church with the exquisite windows.



Here is Louis's statue.

This arched pavilion was built to house the Crown. The carving is magnificent.

A close up showing angels holding the Crown.


One of the pillars along the wall...the carving... the wall covering...so beautiful

I think Sainte-Chapelle is another Paris "must". The photos don't do it justice...and to think it was constructed in the 1200's. Just amazing.

And then there is ... VERSAILLES.

Here are the golden gates of the Palace of Versailles...really GOLDen. Since photos are not allowed to be taken inside the palace, here are some of the outside. To say the Palace is opulent is quite an understatement. All Charlie could think while we toured it was - no wonder they killed them....enough said.



It was a beautiful day so our tour of the grounds was enjoyable. We didn't make it to Marie Antoinette's little farm which was some distance away but did walk the "mall". The grounds are astounding. too. There are short roads running off the main boulevard leading to various other little "parks".


Just a little "side yard"

And the fountains!



A view looking back toward the palace. This was not even halfway down the mall.

Although photos are not allowed inside, I did cheat a bit. I had to take this photo of Louis XIV's profile. His nose is just like Charlie's! I'm sure there is some shared DNA. Really.

The next day we went to Giverny to see where Claude Monet lived and worked. We decided to go at the last minute and it turned out to be the highlight of our trip. The gardens were beautiful but that is for the next blog!








Monday, January 9, 2012

Happy New Year! 2012

Happy New Year! Can it possibly be 2012! Good health and much happiness to everyone this year!

Only three weeks left in our adventure. The ending is coming quickly although there were times I felt it would never arrive. I still haven't told you about Paris... and that was last Easter! And that's not the only trip as yet to be described! I make no promises to write about it all before January 29...but do promise to tell you all about everything in person after that!

For the New Years weekend we went to visit our wonderful Italian friends at Casa Bianca. Piero and Renata made sure our entry into 2012 was as fun as possible. We spent New Year's Eve with their friends from the "neighborhood" at a party hosted by a truly charming couple who live "just around the mountain". We had traditional Italian fare including lentils for good luck.

Our friends make us feel so much at home. We will miss the ability to get to them in a relatively quick time...although we did spend 12 hours in the airport in Zurich on our way back to Pristina. The connection from Florence to Pristina via Zurich is usually 55 minutes but fog in Pristina delayed our flight so we got back here at 2:30 am instead of 2:30 pm. We now know every nook and cranny of the airport in Zurich. Thank goodness it is a beautiful airport.

We have no more trips planned - except the one home. We are anxious to get home and back to having Sadie bark in English instead of Albanian. And to having On Demand TV..among other things. I am looking forward to sitting in a restaurant with people speaking English in the background. I'll know I am truly home then.

Charlie is very busy tying things up at work. He will miss the work here very much. It has been quite an experience. He's met so many interesting people and had such unique experiences. It is a bittersweet ending.

I will be spending this week trying to catch you up on our trips.

And once again, Happy New Year!